Tripe with Basil or an Unconventional Stroganoff? Café Devín Serves Playful Pressburg Cuisine
October 5, 2025

Tripe with Basil or an Unconventional Stroganoff? Café Devín Serves Playful Pressburg Cuisine

  • Curiosities

Hotel Devín, perched on the banks of the Danube, has witnessed countless stories — it has stood here since 1954. Its hallways have welcomed the likes of Belmondo, the Dalai Lama, and Elizabeth Taylor. Not a day goes by without a visitor stopping in to reminisce — many got married here or had their very first date in the restaurant.

Café Devín embraces this history — its wood-paneled walls, towering ceilings, and marble tables exude the spirit of old Pressburg (the historical name for Bratislava). That spirit carries over to the plates too. Guests are served tafelspitz, stroganoff, or classic Viennese schnitzel by elegantly dressed staff, along with a few surprises from head chef Lukáš Michálek.

 Hotel Restaurants Are for Everyone

 At Café Devín, it still occasionally happens that people passing by come in to ask if they’re allowed to dine there. In reality, this long-established restaurant is open to everyone — not just hotel guests.

“Many people assume that if it’s a 4-star hotel, the food must be overpriced,” explains chef Michálek, who offers a weekday business lunch menu built on local ingredients for just €15.

In mid-September, the restaurant also launched a new à la carte menu. Most dishes nod to classic Pressburg cuisine — but always with a modern twist. Michálek admits he was inspired by a recent internship at the two-toque Gault&Millau-awarded Platán Bisztró. The playful tradition he experienced there now echoes through Café Devín’s new menu, which will change twice a year.

“We’re going back to the roots — combining classic ingredients with a fresh visual style. One of our signatures will be tafelspitz, prepared the old-school way. But our stroganoff, for instance, includes beef heart — which might surprise some,” says Michálek.

In his view, offal has been unfairly forgotten in Slovakia, even though it remains common in Hungarian and Austrian cuisine. At Café Devín, they want to give it the recognition it deserves — and it frequently appears on the daily specials menu. 

Classic Meets Creative

What would the chef recommend to someone from abroad looking to taste the essence of old Bratislava?

“Definitely the stroganoff. Or as a starter, the tripe — we serve it with basil foam and tomatoes, and it’s silky smooth. Nothing like the tripe soups most people know. Or our pork aspic, which we plate with fermented cucumber,” he explains.

The menu also includes a traditional veal schnitzel, pan-fried in clarified butter, just like it used to be.

“All our meats come from local butchers, our cheeses from regional farms — we really care about our suppliers. And to traditional dishes, I like to add a twist. Today, we have techniques that let us recreate familiar flavor profiles in completely new ways. Back then, there was no sous vide — and personally, I love fermented juices, which you’ll find, for example, in our stroganoff,” adds Michálek. 

More Culinary Experiences Coming Soon

The hotel will soon expand its culinary offerings with a new Chef’s Table experience, located in a separate space. Guests will be treated to top-tier ingredients from around the world, with the chef and sommelier guiding them through the evening — possibly all the way to Asia.

This creates a perfect synergy between old and new, and between local and global.

“For people from Bratislava, Hotel Devín is iconic. So of course, we’ll always honor the past alongside them. But I’m also excited that I’m not creatively restricted — and that we can keep experimenting with versions of classic dishes that still pay tribute to their roots,” concludes Michálek.

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