Savoy Restaurant at the Carlton has been around for decades, yet it was only after the redesigning of its concept, and especially the menu, that encouraged us to visit. The setting, which builds on the hotel’s history, lends the restaurant an old town atmosphere and a sense of distinction. Under the leadership of the talented Michal Hečko, the kitchen presents dishes characteristic of Bratislava cuisine, drawing on traditional recipes while incorporating current gastronomic trends. A finely sliced smoked duck breast with playful pickled vegetables and a house-made toast with whipped fat is not something one would typically expect in a hotel restaurant, yet its elegant presentation and, above all, bold flavour made for an excellent start. The pork cheeks were paired with fermented garlic, pickled and aged in honey for fifteen days, adding depth to the meat and complemented by a light pumpkin-
-and-potato dumpling. Do you like cheesecake? At Savoy, do not expect the classic triangular slice, nor even the usual type of cheese. Bryndza, shaped into a sphere, is strikingly set on a caramel base and accompanied by fermented plums, which lend the dessert an elegant acidity. The kitchen’s uniqueness is slightly undermined by the wine selection and the service, both of which still have room for improvement. Even so, Savoy is clearly on the right path to joining the leaders who value time and processes, because good things are worth waiting for.
