The cosy restaurant behind Tehelňa in Trnávka feels like quintessential Italy. A menu written on a chalkboard, wooden furniture, white tablecloths, shelves lined with Italian wine, bottles of San Pellegrino in the window and the constant hum of the coffee machine all set the scene. While the regular menu offers classic pasta dishes, pizza and meat-based mains, the handwritten board introduces fresh fish and less conventional flavour combinations. At da Cono, lunch usually begins with bruschettina, but this time we warmed up with an Italian-style goulash, made distinctive by the use of two types of meat and potatoes cut into small cubes. We continued in a similarly unconventional vein with our choice of pasta. Classics such as Bolognese or aglio e olio e peperoncino will certainly not disappoint here, but a particularly interesting flavour pairing came from fresh pasta with slices of duck breast, artichokes and Italian salami in a cream sauce. The duck, finely sliced salami, creamy sauce and the gentle acidity of the artichokes created an appealing balance of flavours. The portion could have been slightly smaller and would have benefited from a touch more salt. And what would Italy be without tiramisu? The one served here was light and delicate, though the kitchen seemed a little restrained with the amaretto, and the cream lacked its typical yellow hue. Even so, it ranks among the better versions in Bratislava. The overall impression was completed by smiling service, Italian wine and music, elements without which the experience would hardly feel complete. For a touch of Italian authenticity, there is no need to travel far; a visit to the wider centre of Bratislava will suffice.
